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ECUADOR
CONTINENTAL
DRIFTER
Spanish language immersion in Quito, Ecuador by
Elliott Hester
click
on photos for more images of Ecuador
Sitting in a private classroom on the
lower slope of the Pichincha volcano, more than 9,000 feet
above sea level in the Ecuadorian Andes, the thin air doesnít
bother me. But the conjugation is driving me insane.
Zayra Ibujés, one of several language instructors at
the Amazonas Spanish School, has just asked me to conjugate
the verb aullar (to howl).
"Yo a'llo. Tu a'llas. El a'lla ..." After correctly
rattling off, "I howl, you howl, and he howls,"
I mispronounce the "we howl" conjugation.
"No, no, no, señor," says, Señorita
Ibujés,
correcting me in Spanish for the fifteenth time this morning.
"Nosotros aullamos."
I stifle the urge to lean back in my chair and a'llo!
 Amazonas
is one of more than 60 Spanish language schools in Quito,
Ecuador. A mild year-round climate, relatively safe surroundings,
a clearly-spoken Spanish dialect and low prices make Ecuador's
capital the place to be for Spanish language learning.
Depending on which school you choose, you'll pay from $6.00
to $10.00 per hour for private, one-on-one classes with an
instructor certified by the Ministry of Education. Most students
remain in class 4 hours per day, but schools are willing to
cater to all schedules.
As is the case with mi profesora, Señorita Ibujés,
most teachers speak little or no English. This worried me
initially. But after one week of Spanish language immersion,
I began understanding at an accellerated rate.
Since opening its doors in 1989, the Amazonas School averages
approximately 500 foreign students per year. Most come from
Europe (England, Germany and Holland are prime markets), although
Spanish-speaking wannabes pop in regularly from the United
States, Canada, and as far away as South Africa, South Korea,
and the Czech Republic.
According to general manager Gustavo Guzm·n, the average
student is about 24 years old. "But we've had students
as young as 8," he says. "And as old as 76."
 The
school provides three language learning options. The "Super
Dynamic" curriculum is recommended for those with only
1 or 2 weeks to spare. Classes generally run 4 to 5 hours
per day. Lessons deal with real-life situations like ordering
food at a restaurant or checking into a hotel. Eighty percent
of the class involves conversation. The remaining time is
devoted to reading, writing, grammar and punctuation.
The "Dynamic" program is best suited for those with
3 to 4 weeks in which to study. Again, classes run 4 to 5
hours, five days per week. With more days in which to learn,
however, students receive a more comprehensive approach. Education
begins with the Spanish alphabet and moves on to numbers,
colors, days of the week, and one of the most important (and
sometimes most difficult) aspects of language learning: verb
conjugation.
Travelers with a few months on their hands will no doubt benefit
from the "Regular" program, which allows for a thoroughly
detailed approach to language learning. "We have great
success," says Señor Guzman. "Our students
know we are here to help them."
 Help
is available at all levels, from beginner to advanced. The
school prides itself on having taught American Airlines pilots
and flight attendants, as well as corporate executives like
the general manager of Heiniken in Ecuador.
To enhance the language-learning experience, many schools
offer a "Home Stay" program. This allows students
to live with a carefully screened, middle-class Ecuadorian
family in a comfortable environment. The families speak no
English. Students are thus provided with the impetus to reinforce
lessons learned in class.
Seventy-five percent of students at the Amazonas Spanish School,
myself included, take advantage of the Home Stay program.
I live in the sprawling 3-story home of Dr. Jaime Yépez
Castro and his wife Inés
María Darquea de Yépez.
During their 6-year affiliation with Amazonas, the retired
couple has hosted exactly 98 students from all over the world.
After I signed their dog-eared guest register, Señora
Yépez
wrote "99" below my name.
My stay includes three scrumptious home-cooked meals per day,
laundry service, a large private bedroom with a color TV,
and a private bathroom. At a cost of $20.00 per day, it's
cheaper and more carefree than living at home.
Which brings me to a bilingual revelation. I pay $8.00 per
hour for private classes that would cost $20.00 or more in
the United States. If you're serious about learning Spanish,
it may be cheaper and far more interesting to fly to Quito,
enroll in a Spanish language course and live with an Ecuadorian
family.
Check airline prices. Do the math. You might find yourself
saying caramba!
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