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RUSSIA
CONTINENTAL
DRIFTER
16th
Installment: St.Petersburg, Russia by Elliott Hester
click
on photos for more images of St
Petersburg
Nearly
every world-class city boasts a famous boulevard designed to inspire
dreams. Fifth Avenue personifies the best of New York City. Oxford
Street is the axis upon which London spins. Champs-Élysées
epitomizes the grandiosity of Paris, and Orchard Road hails as Singapore's
most alluring thoroughfare.
But
during summer in Russia's second largest city, Nevsky Prospekt inspires
a different kind of dream. The street is not known for outdoor cafes
which are unexceptional and few. Nor is it known for shopping which
is mediocre at best. With an abundance of breathtakingly beautiful
women, however, the sidewalks running along Nevsky's 2.6 kilometer
length resemble fashion catwalks. This makes girl-watching... er,
woman-watching one of St. Petersburg's prime attractions.
Move
over babushka. Since the cold war ended, the Russian female
image has changed dramatically.
While
standing starry-eyed on Nevsky Prospekt, women sauntered past me
like supermodels in a post-glasnost dream. Blonde Russians. Black
Russians. Russians with Asian features. Tall, proud, and with postures
that would delight the head mistress of a finishing school, they
dressed as if strutting down a catwalk in Milan. They wore stylish
dresses and designer pumps, mini skirts and provocative tops, elegant
shawls with matching berets, and funky two-piece outfits sheathed
in billowing transparent cloaks.
Bras
seem to have disappeared along with the Soviet era. That being said,
Nevsky's most daring fashion victims wear translucent blouses that
might bring traffic to a halt in New York. But here in St. Petersburg,
such images are so common they barely raise an eyebrow.
This
is what surprised me about the 300-year-old port city. With so much
raw beauty and in-your-face sensuality, not once did I see a woman
hassled by a man. Not on the street. Not in the shops. Not even
in the deep, dark recesses of the metro stations through which thousands
of lone women pass daily. St. Petersburg boasts some of the world's
most provocatively dressed females (summer only), and yet they seem
to walk around without being pestered by men.
I
never expected any of this. Like most visitors, I came to Nevsky
Prospekt to see important buildings such as the Church of the Resurrection
of Christ. Built on the same spot where Alexander II was killed
in 1881, it is best known as the "Church on Spilled Blood." Construction
began in 1883, two years after Alexander's death. The building wasn't
completed until 1907.
It's
easy to understand why the structure took 24 years to complete.
Similar to other Byzantine dome-style churches like Moscow's famous
St. Basil's Cathedral, the Church on Spilled Blood is crowned with
large multi-colored onion domes of astonishing character and beauty.
Unable
to stay focused on this architectural marvel, my attention soon
diverted toward a different kind of beauty. Hoards of women
many dressed in summer white strolled up and down Nevsky
Prospekt like armies of angels. Trying to keep rubber-necking to
a minimum, I moved up the street and stopped to admire the Stroganov
Palace.
The
Stroganovs were a prominent family that became rich during the reign
of Ivan the Terrible. Noted art collectors, their stunning baroque
palace was erected on Nevsky Prospekt between 1752 and 1754.
Soon
after the family moved in, they acquired a reputation for serving
hearty lunches to St. Petersburg's elite. Beef, it seems, was often
on the menu. Their French chef, hoping to find a way to feed many
mouths, decided to get creative. He sautéed the beef, sliced
it into thin strips and served it with onions and mushrooms in a
sour cream sauce. The popular dish became known the world over as
Beef Stroganoff.
Such
culinary revelations are lost upon a single man who finds himself
standing face-to-face with a drop-dead gorgeous woman. But there
I was on Nevsky Prospekt, less than a yard away from one of the
most beautiful women on Earth.
I
eked out a feeble, "Hello." She smiled, said something in Russian,
then went on her merry way. I wanted to marry her. For the first
time in my life, I wanted to speak at least a few words of Russian.
But as she merged with dozens of lovely ladies who just happened
to be walking down the sidewalk, I thought about Alexander Pushkin.
Alexander
Sergeyevich Pushkin is Russia's most beloved poet and the great-grandson
of Abrahm Hannibal, an Ethiopian slave. Hannibal managed to upgrade
his position and eventually became a general under Peter the Great.
Born
in 1799 to a noble family in Moscow, Pushkin graduated from the
Imperial Lyceum at Tsarkoye Selo and soon found himself enlisted
at the ministry of foreign affairs in St. Petersburg. There he enjoyed
the privileged life of a young poet. But in 1820, when authorities
got hold of his anti-government piece, "Ode to Liberty," he was
exiled to the Caucasus.
Eventually
he married Natalya Goncharova (a beautiful Russian with whom some
say Pushkin was obsessed) and returned to St. Petersburg. When French
Baron Georges D'Anthés openly courted Natalya, Pushkin became
incensed. He challenged the Frenchman to a duel.
Russia's
great poet died two days later, on February 10, 1837, from wounds
he suffered at the duel. Baron D'Anthés, bastard that he
was, went on to marry Natalya's sister.
Pushkin
ate his last meal at the Literary Café, on the second floor
of a classically designed building on Nevsky Prospekt. Today, it's
a popular restaurant and tourist attraction. The food is pretty
good too. And from the windows at the front of the restaurant you
can look down and watch the daily beauty parade.
If
Pushkin's wife Natalya was half as stunning as the ladies I saw
on Nevsky Prospekt, I understand why he tried to shoot her suitor.
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